Thursday, August 25, 2011

Fresh Fruity & Flavorful

     For many, Italian white wine means Pinot Grigio grown from the southern tip of Sicily to the northern edge of Alto Adige on the Austrian border, the grapes make mostly simple, easy drinking wines that could come from just about any Italian wine region. But if these are all you have tried you're missing out. There is so much more including some distinctive Pinot Grigios that break the mold. I have tasted many white wines from Italy. They prove that Italy is one of the most diverse white wine-producing countries in the world. There are international-style wines, from big voluptuous Chardonnays to tangy minerally Sauvginon Blancs; though delicious, most resemble versions from other regions. More interesting are wines made from local varieties, such as Greco di Tufos from hillside vineyards near the volcano of Vesuvius, or minerally Vermentinos from the coastal vineyards of Tuscany, or zingy Tocai Friulanos from the gentle slopes of Collio in the northeast. Most of the best versions of these wines sell for between $10 and $20 per bottle, so it's easy to experiment.
     What, I like about Italian whites is that most of them are unoaked, or show minimal barrel influence; the majority are fermented (and aged for a few months) in stainless steel vats before being bottled. They are focused more on what they are made from than what they are made in, so you experience all the innate flavors of the grape, whether it's the floral character of Pinot Blanc or the tropical qualities of a Soave from Veneto. Italian whites are made this way because Italians drink them mostly during the summer, when they prefer to serve light, fresh, delicate wines as aperitifs or with just-caught crustaceans and fish from the Mediterranean Sea.. Big, oaky and heavy whites just aren't appreciated in general. I have seen dinner guests grimace after a sip of a supercharged, wooded Chardonnay, even one from top vineyards in Burgundy and sometimes, its just too darn hot out for such big wines.
     Another generalization that seems to be true is that vintage quality doesn't vary much year from year. Such consistency makes it a lot easier to buy whites from Italy, as the leading names in Italian white wines seem to be able to make very good to excellent wines every vintage, whatever their locality. The general rule is to buy the youngest vintage available. There is nearly always something interesting to discover in Italian white wines, even if its just a new Pinot Grigio and while you're exploring, don't forget to try some more distinctive ones.

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