KOSHER WINE

Until the 1980's many Kosher wines tasted like a cross between Kool-Aid and Children's medicine. Today, however, Kosher wines are  in an entirely different league. Made by winemakers with good credentials from  such classic varieties as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Kosher wines now compete with fine wines made anywhere in the world. To be Kosher, a wine must be made under rabbinical supervision and must be handled throughout vilification by a Sabbath-observant Jew. Wine handled or served by a non-observer is considered unfit for sacramental use. Historically, of course, Jewish religious authorities knew that wine was used not just for sacramental purposes but also socially. Wine eased and encouraged social interaction. Religious scholars speculate that rabbis and Jewish intellectuals may have feared such socializing, viewing it as the first step toward the disintegration of Jewish culture and the assimilation of Jews into other cultures. To mitigate against this, two versions of Kosher wine were made. The first, Mevushal (cooked) wine, would be boiled, making it in a sense morally sterilized. Though Mevushal wine would therefore be less palatable than regular wine, it could be shared by non-Jews and nonobservant Jews with observant Jews. The other type of Kosher wine would be non-Mevushal and, as result, generally better tasting. Non-Mevushal wine could be drunk and served only by Sabbath-observervant Jews. If a non-Jew or a non-Sabbath observant Jew touched a non-Mevushal wine, even accidentally, it could not be consumed by someone who strictly followed Kosher dietary law. Initially, Mevushal wines were quite literally boiled. Today the unfermented grape juice or wine is flash pasteurized- a more modern method of sterilization- and the wine is then aged. Flash pasteurization is also kinder than boiling when it comes to preserving the wine's aroma and flavor. In both Europe and Israel, Kosher wine has always been made from classic European grape varieties, such as Cab Sav, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Merlot. While that is now true in Untied States as well, in the past most American-made Kosher wines were produced from foxy-tasting native grapes, such as Concord, which were also used for jelly. These grapes thrived along the East Coast, where the largest centers of Jewish population were to be found. Over time, American-made Kosher wine became inextricably linked with syrupy sweet wine, such as Manischevitz. The largest U.S. importer and distributor of Kosher wines is the New York based Royal Kedem. As for specific producers of Kosher wine, the best in California include Weinstock, Hagafen, Gan Eden and Baron Herzog. The most famous French Kosher wine is the one called Baron Rothschild, an expensive Kosher Bordeaux produced by Baron Edmund Rothschild of Lafite-Rothschild. From Israel, the producer to look for are Yarden and Golan.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN WINE

There are five qualities a taster must assess in order to determine whether a wine is great: Varietal character, Integration, Expressiveness, Complexity and Connectedness.
Distinct Varietal Character is a good thing. Each variety of grape presents itself in a unique way. When a young wine that has been made from a single variety of grape presents its inherent grape aromas and flavors in a straightforward, clear and focused way, it is said to have varietal character. Not all varietal characteristics have mass appeal. Some wine drinkers think the assertive, tangy green herb, olive and straw character of some Sauvignon Blancs is quite nasty, especially if the aromas go one step further and take on what is often described as cat piss smell. "Cat piss" as long as its not extreme, is a description used approvingly by some wine drinkers (including me) who do like Sauvignon Blanc. There's an obvious analogy here with cheese. Just because some people cannot bear smelly cheese, is blue cheese awful? Should every cheese be remade in the image of Kraft singles, just because these have widespread appeal? I think the idea is absurd.
Integration is a state whereby the components of a wine are so impeccably interwoven that no one characteristic or component stands out. Integration means more than just balance. Integration implies that all the components have come together in harmonious fusion.
Expressiveness is the quality a wine possesses when its aromas and flavors are well-defined and clearly projected. While some wines seem muddled and diffused, others beam out their character with almost unreal clarity and focus.
Complexity is not a thing but a phenomenon. Unlike, say jamminess or acidity, you cannot go looking for the thing called complexity. Complexity is more like a force that pulls you into a wine and impels you to repeatedly return for another smell and sip because each time you do, you find something new.
Connectedness is perhaps the most elusive of these concepts and the most difficult quality to ascertain. It is the sense you get from the wine's aroma and flavor that it could not have come from just anywhere but rather is the embodiment of a single piece of earth. Connectedness is the bond between a wine and the plot of land it was born in.

SCOTCH: A SPIRIT BEYOND COMPARE

Often imitated (never successfully) by producers in other lands, Scotch whisky is inseparably wedded to the Highlands and Lowlands of its native heath. It is compounded of elements indigenous to Scotland: crystal-clear water obtained from the sparkling streams the Scots call burns, barley grown on the mountain slopes known as braes, the peat fuel that gives Scotch its Characterically smoky flavor, and even say the Scots, the pure air of their land.
The original Scotch was an unblended spirit called Malt whisky- so named because it was made exclusively from barley that was germinated, or malted, by steeping it in water before fermentation. Strong, and harsh on the palates of most drinkers other than the Scots, who profess to enjoy it, malt scotch is still made in Scotland, and some is spared for export; what the rest of the world calls Scotch, however, is a blend of up to 60% of this malt whisky with unmalted grain whiskies.
The exact proportions and origins of the ingredients of their products-up to 50 whiskies may go into a single scotch-are closely guarded secrets of the distillers. About the only fact that manufactures do not keep locked in their Scots hearts and vaults is the age of the product. British law stipulates that any Scotch must mature for at least three years, but most of it is four years of age or more when it is put on the market.

DECANTING, DRINKING, AGING AND STORING PORT

Decanting- which is not difficult- is only necessary for those Ports that throw a sediment. These include vintage Port, traditional late bottled Port, Single Quinta vintage Port and Crusted Port. Depending on how old and delicate the wine is, it should be decanted from three to twelve hours before being served. If the wine is fairly young  and robust you can decant it ten to twelve hours ahead; a more fragile wine should be decanted closer to the time when it will be drunk. Ports that do not throw a sediment and so do not need to be decanted include ruby, young and aged tawny, colheita and white Port. These may be poured straight into the glass. One of the oldest and most curious Port traditions concerns the direction on which a bottle is passed. By custom, Port is always supposed to be passed from the right to left, in a clockwise direction. Drinking Port is the easiest part, any good-sized wineglass will do. (As with all wines, the glass should be large enough to allow the Port to be swirled.) Generally about 31/2 ounces of Port is poured in the glass-a slightly smaller amount , in other words, than you would pour of a regular wine. As for aging, some Ports are made so they can be drunk right away; others will mature and improve if stored well. The Ports that improve with age include vintage Port, single Quinta Port, traditional late bottled and Crusted Port. These can be stored a long time. Most vintage ports are best after it has been aged at least ten years, and some will continue to mature well for three decades or more. All other Ports are ready to drink when released, although they can also be stored for about two years without ant significant loss of quality. Ports that can be drunk right away generally have a stopper-type cork. These Ports should be stored standing up until you open the bottle. Ports that improve with age, such as Vintage Port are sealed with regular corks. These should be stored lying down. The ideal storage place is cool, about 55F, and dark, so that ultraviolet light does not instigate chemical reactions that, in turn, might cause the wine to oxidize. Port bottles themselves are generally black to help preserve the freshness of the liquid inside.

WINE WITHOUT BOOZE? WHY?

Take too much fun from the fun bank at Thanksgiving? With more holiday revelry coming up, I have three little words: alcohol-free wine.

The notion of tinkering with perfectly good vino makes true wine lovers blanch, but alcohol-free wine has some advantages over its boozy cousin, including far fewer calories: about 15 to 25 calories for a 4-ounce glass, compared with about 90 for a glass of Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon. Alcohol-free wine also should confer some of the health benefits one gets from moderate regular-wine consumption,The same antioxidants found in regular wine also exist in alcohol-free wine if the same grapes were used. These polyphenols -- which fall under the broad umbrella of antioxidants -- include the almighty resveratrol, a compound in red wine that's been receiving recent media attention. Typically, alcohol-free wine is made by extracting the alcohol through a filtering or vacuum process, while leaving the other components intact. By law, the wines must be less than one-half of 1% alcohol. While it does appear that alcohol in moderation decreases the effects of cardiovascular disease, it can also increase your calorie intake; triglycerides, which is another blood lipid; your blood pressure; and possibly your cancer risk. You have to look at the total picture. And the public is buying it. Ariel Vineyards sold 1.2 million bottles of alcohol-free wine last year. Alcohol-free-wine drinkers include pregnant women, designated drivers and people who need to abstain for medical reasons or simply don't like alcohol. Someone with a long history of wine drinking who tries these products won't exactly be seeing stars. It's hard enough to find a really great, rich, soulful Cabernet or Chardonnay with the alcohol, and it's almost an impossible challenge to deliver a really great Cabernet or Chardonnay without alcohol. Alcohol is important to the roundness and richness and sweetness of wine.

But there are a few out there and one of the best I have tasted is Ariel. Ariel has the distinction of producing the only dealcoholized wine to win a gold medal at a formal competition against regular wines. Sure, it was in 1986 at the Los Angeles County Fair, but, still, the wine must have been the Secretariat of the bunch. There is also Fre which makes a pretty tasty sparkling wine.

PROSECCO, ITALY'S SPARKLING JEWEL

The veneto's ubiquitous Spumante, Prosecco grapes sometimes with small amounts of Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio added. The best of the Prosecco grapes undoubtedly come from vineyards just north of Venice in the rambling hills between the villages of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Traditionally, the sparkler was rather soft, slightly sweet and only slightly fizzy. Today most examples are dry and fully Spumante, though still more fruity and less dramatically crisp then Champagne. Prosecco is not made by the Champagne method, but rather by the Charmat process, in which wine undergoes a second fermentation in pressurized tanks rather than in individual bottles. In late afternoon virtually every bar in Venice pours glass after glass of Prosecco, which the civilized Venetians consider Ombrette, a pick me up. Such is the fame of Prosecco that it is now the second leading Spumante in Italy after Asti. Prosecco is mainly produced as a sparkling wine in either the fully sparkling (Spumante) or lightly sparkling (Frizzante) varieties. A still wine (tranquillo) is also  made from the Prosecco grape- it amounts to only 5% production and rarely exported.
In Italy, Prosecco is enjoyed as a wine for every occasion. Outside Italy, it is more often drunk as an aperitif, much like Champagne. Like other sparkling wines, Prosecco is served chilled. Since Prosecco does not ferment in the bottle and grows stale with time, it should be drunk as young as possible and preferably withing 3 years of it vintage, although high-quality Prosecco can be aged for up to 7 years. Compared to other sparkling wines, Prosecco is low in alcohol about 11 to 12% by volume. The flavor of Prosecco has been described as intensely aromatic and crisp with great flavors of apple, pear, peach and apricot. Most Prosecco variants have intense primary aromas and are meant to taste fresh, light and comparatively simple.
So the next time you want to kick off a celebration and want a new and inexpensive alternative to Champagne, reach for that bottle of Prosecco and see why many worldwide love to toast with a glass of this Italian Jewel!!

SLOOP BETTY INFUSED VODKA DINNER

Last night, I went to Sloop Betty Infused Vodka dinner at Sobo's winebeerstro in Salisbury, MD. I have been to many cocktail and wine pairing dinners before, but this one worked especially well. Why? Because it's Vodka, unlike stronger flavored booze like Tequila or Scotch, Vodka is more adaptable to the ingredients surrounding it-both in drinks and pairing it with food.

The Vodka used for this dinner was a hand-crafted Vodka from Sloop Betty at Black water Distilling. Owners Chris and Jonathon Cook and partner Mark Troxler are passionate in producing Vodka in a fine style made from Maryland-sourced and other select ingredients. Sloop Betty is Certified Kosher and they are working with Maryland Organic Certification Program to obtain recognition. OK enough of my jibber jabber lets get down to Vodka and food.

Once again Chef Frank Dubinski has blown my palette out of control with his creative and artistic food pairings for this event.

First Course- SCALLOP CEVICHE- scallops/ cucumber, onion & bell pepper/ rice wine & Citrus vinaigrette with avocado

Infused Vodka- Cucumber & onion

Cocktail- BETTY'S SQUEEZE- Cucumber Infused Vodka, Tonic and lime

The vodka was smooth and clean with a nice easy finish. Good balance of cucumber and onion flavors that were not overpowering.

Second Course- BLT PRAWNS- Bacon poached prawns/ smoked tomato-horseradish puree/ cilantro-lime vinaigrette/Crispy Prosciutto

Infused Vodka- Bacon, Lime and tomato

Cocktail- BLOODY BETTY MARY- Sloop Betty BLT infused Vodka, Bloody Mary mix, Old Bay and lime

The Vodka had aromas of smoked Gouda with flavors of lime and a little earthy. Great smoky flavor with a crisp cilantro on the prawns.

Third Course- PETITE NY STRIP STEAK- Peppercorn melange/ parsnip puree/ arugula/ pink peppercorn butter

Infused Vodka- 5 pepper

Cocktail- RED HEADED BETTY- Sloop Betty 5 pepper infused vodka, Grenadine, lime

The Vodka was hot hot hot!! Wonderful amounts of pepper and the jabanero really jump out in this one. The Steak was one the most perfectly cooked Ive had. Juicy, Warm and full of butter and pepper. (This was my favorite pairing of the night)

Fourth Course- APPLE CREPES WITH CALVADOS BUTTER SAUCE & PORT GLAZED GRAPE TART WITH PECAN CRUST

Infused Vodka- Starburst flavored ( apple, Pineapple, Grape and Strawberry)

So when your in you favorite liquor store look for Sloop Betty Vodka, if you cant find be sure to ask them to order some, you will not be Sobo's and see what creations The Chef has come up with and enjoy some of the great drink creations they have on the menu. Cheers

www.sloopbetty.com, www.southernoysconcepts.com